How to measure and fit your splashback

Our splashbacks have ended up in all sorts of places, from kitchens and bathrooms to home office and library spaces - and even a few camper vans.

In general, they are incredibly easy to measure for, and fit - much less work than tiles. But as they're non-returnable if they don't fit, it's worth measuring really carefully. (Trying to squeeze a piece of toughened glass into a too-small space will end in tears!).

MOROCCAN FLOWER SPLASHBACK

MEASURING 

Your splashback will need a 2 to 3mm expansion gap around the perimeter to allow for thermal expansion, and to prevent it from cracking due to minor wall or unit movement. This small gap should be measured and accounted for during the measurement process and then filled with a low modulus silicone sealant after the splashback is in place. 

Why is a gap necessary? 

1 - Thermal expansion: Glass, like most materials, expands and contracts with changes in temperature. A gap prevents the glass from putting too much pressure on adjacent surfaces. 

2 - Wall and unit movement: Walls and kitchen units can also subtly move over time due to moisture and temperature fluctuations. A small gap provides tolerance for this movement, reducing the risk of the glass cracking. 

How to ensure the correct gap: 

Measure accurately: Measure the wall space for your splashback multiple times and at different points. 

Deduct the gap: When taking your final measurements, deduct the 2-3mm gap from each edge that will meet a fixed surface like a countertop or a corner. 

Use tile spacers: If needed, you can use small tile spacers to maintain the gap during installation. 

Apply sealant once fitted: Once the splashback is installed, fill the gap with a solvent-free, low-modulus silicone sealant to provide a watertight seal and a clean finish.

stonework splashback by doodlepippin
INSTALLATION 

For splashbacks with drilled fixing holes, your splashback should include a fixing kit which includes screws and screw caps.

Splashbacks without fixing holes require a suitable silicone for fitting. (This should normally be included in the parcel, but in some cases may arrive separately.)

Please ensure that you use a low modulus, neutral cure silicone - other sealants may cause a reaction with the paint or print on the back of the glass splashback.

Fitting Preparation Unpack your glass splashback very carefully. Always place the splashback on a soft surface. 

Printed glass splashbacks will have foil backing applied to the rear. This opaque layer stays on the glass (don't peel if off!).

Always 'dry fix' or 'offer up' the glass before drilling the wall or applying adhesive.

Fixing using adhesive / silicone If your splashback is free standing you will need a support to keep it still and in position while the silicone dries / goes off.  This can be removed after 24 hours once the adhesive has cured. If your splashback is sitting on a worktop or upstand, no support is required.

Apply enough strips of adhesive to the back of the glass from one side to the other in 100mm intervals.

Carefully place your splashback into the desired position and press firmly against it for 30 seconds.

The silicone can also be used around the edges of the glass to seal them and give a professional finish.

Fixing using screws

Check the wall and prep the area: Ensure the wall surface is clean, dry, flat, and free of dust. Rest the bottom edge of the glass safely on a protective towel or surface near your hob or worktop. 

Mark the hole locations: Position the splashback precisely where you want it using a spirit level. Insert a pencil through the pre-drilled holes in the glass to clearly mark the spot on the wall.

Scan for pipes and cables: Run a digital detector over your pencil marks to ensure you will not hit any hidden electrical wires or water pipes. 

Drill the wall: Remove the glass and store it safely. Drill holes into the wall to the correct depth and insert your plastic wall plugs (rawl plugs). Clean away any drilling dust so it doesn't get trapped behind the panel.

Mount the glass: Line up the pre-drilled glass holes with the wall plugs. Always use the plastic/rubber protective washers provided between the metal screw and the glass to prevent cracking under pressure.

Secure the screws: Screw each fixing in gently and loosely first. Once all are aligned, slowly tighten them by hand or with a low-torque screwdriver until secure. Do not over-tighten. 

Add caps and seal: Snap or screw the cover caps into place over the screw heads. Run a thin bead (max 2.5mm thick) of clear neutral-cure silicone sealant around the outer edges of the glass to block moisture and grease.

Finishing (both adhesive and screws)
It's fairly common practice to use silicone to seal around the edges of the glass after it has been fitted; this prevents moisture or dirt getting in, and leaves a tidy edge.

If you have end up with a gap around the edge that is visible / annoys you, it can be filled with a compound like Builders Caulk which, when dry, can be overpainted with the colour of your choice.

Any questions, please let me know!